Destination
The best mountain hotels in Arabia
Cliff-edge hideaways above Oman’s rose terraces and vast canyons.
2 hotels
Few travellers expect mountains in Arabia, but Oman's Hajar range is one of the great surprises of the region. Rising above the desert to more than 3,000 metres, it is a world of vast canyons, ancient terraced villages and cool, clear air. At its heart lies Jebel Akhdar, the 'Green Mountain', a high plateau at around 2,000 metres where farmers grow pomegranates, walnuts, apricots and the famous Damask roses, watered by falaj irrigation channels that are recognised by UNESCO.
The mountain is often 10 to 15 degrees cooler than the coast, which has long made it a summer retreat for Omani families. Today it is home to two of the most spectacular hotels in the Middle East, both perched on the edge of deep gorges. From their terraces you can watch eagles circling below you, walk between stone villages that cling to the cliffs, and visit the historic fort and souk of Nizwa, one of Oman's oldest towns.
When to go
October to April is the best time, with warm, sunny days and cool evenings; winter nights can drop close to freezing, so bring warm clothes. The rose harvest, from late March to April, is a special time, when the terraces are in bloom and the villages distil rosewater in traditional ways. Pomegranates ripen in late summer. Summer itself, from June to September, is hot on the coast but pleasantly mild on the mountain, and this is when the region is busiest with visitors from the Gulf. Note that only four-wheel-drive vehicles are allowed on the mountain road.
How to choose your hotel
Both hotels sit on the edge of the same great gorge, and both are superb. Choose Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar for scale and facilities: it is the larger resort, with a famous clifftop viewing platform, an infinity pool on the edge of the canyon, several restaurants and an Anantara spa. Choose Alila Jabal Akhdar for a quieter, more intimate stay: built from local stone to blend into the landscape, it feels more remote, and its walking trails lead directly along the gorge.
FAQ
Is Jebel Akhdar worth visiting?
Yes. It offers dramatic canyon scenery, cool air, terraced rose villages and some of the most spectacular hotels in the Middle East, and it combines easily with Muscat, Nizwa and the desert.
Do you need a 4x4 for Jebel Akhdar?
Yes. Only four-wheel-drive vehicles are allowed past the police checkpoint at the foot of the mountain road. Both hotels can arrange transfers.
When is the rose season on Jebel Akhdar?
Usually from late March to April, when the Damask roses bloom on the terraces and villagers make rosewater.
Is it cold on Jebel Akhdar?
In winter, nights can be close to freezing and days are mild, so pack warm layers. In summer it is much cooler than the coast.
