Zaborin, Niseko, Hokkaido, Japan

Zaborin is a luxury ryokan in Niseko, Hokkaido, set in a quiet forest on the edge of Japan's most famous ski resort, and it reimagines the traditional Japanese inn for the twenty-first century. Its name loosely translates as "a place among the trees to sit and forget". Each of its 15 villas has its own indoor and outdoor hot spring bath, fed by a natural spring beneath the property, and dinners are elaborate multi-course feasts of Hokkaido's finest ingredients. Holding two MICHELIN Keys, it is one of the most serene and refined places to stay in Japan.

Location: Niseko, Hokkaido, Japan

Zaborin lies in the Hanazono Forest, near Kutchan, in the Niseko area of south-western Hokkaido, Japan's northernmost main island. The Hanazono ski area, part of Niseko United, is about a seven-minute drive away, and the resort village of Hirafu around 20 minutes. JR Kutchan station is about 15 minutes by car, and New Chitose Airport, near Sapporo, is roughly two hours away.

Niseko is world-famous for its light, dry powder snow, carried by Siberian winds across the Sea of Japan, which falls almost daily through the winter. Across the valley rises Mount Yotei, a near-perfect volcanic cone often called the "Mount Fuji of Hokkaido". In summer and autumn, the area is lush and green, with hiking, rafting, cycling and golf.

Rooms and suites at Zaborin

There are just 15 villas, each a standalone structure rather than a room in a shared building, which gives exceptional privacy. Designed by architect Makoto Nakayama, they combine Japanese simplicity with contemporary design, using natural materials from Hokkaido and floor-to-ceiling windows framing views of the forest, the meadow or, in some cases, Mount Yotei.

Guests can choose to sleep on futons in traditional washitsu style or in Western-style beds, and some villas have an extra tatami room that can sleep two more, ideal for families. Every villa has two private onsen baths, one indoors and one outdoors, filled with mineral-rich spring water from the property's own geothermal source. There are traditional garments for lounging and dining, as well as modern comforts.

Facilities at Zaborin

Dining is central to the Zaborin experience. Hokkaido-born chef Yoshihiro Seno, who trained in Tokyo and New York, creates Kita Kaiseki, a northern interpretation of Kyoto's traditional kaiseki cuisine, showcasing Hokkaido's exceptional seafood, vegetables and dairy in beautifully presented multi-course meals. Guests dine in private dining rooms, at a teppanyaki counter or in the tearoom.

The main lodge has wood-burning fireplaces, a candlelit library and lounge, where desserts and tea are served after dinner, a bar with a selection of Japanese whiskies, a boutique of local ceramics and loungewear, and a massage room for private treatments. There is no large spa: the villas' own onsen baths are the heart of the wellness experience. Zaborin was created by James and Michele Marshall, part-time Hokkaido residents, as their first hotel.

The mountain moment

The defining moment at Zaborin is sitting in your outdoor onsen on a winter evening as soft powder snow falls silently into the forest, the hot water steaming around you and the trees glowing in the lantern light. After a day skiing some of the deepest powder in the world, it is the very definition of bliss.

On a clear day, the sight of Mount Yotei's snowy cone rising above the forest, perfect and symmetrical, is equally unforgettable.

Why Zaborin is one of the best mountain hotels

Zaborin earns its place because it brings together the best of Japan's mountain culture: the world's finest powder skiing, the deep tradition of onsen bathing, exceptional kaiseki cuisine and the quiet refinement of the ryokan, all in an intimate, beautifully designed setting.

It is a tranquil, contemplative retreat rather than a lively ski hotel. But for couples and anyone seeking peace, beauty and genuine Japanese hospitality after a day in the snow, it is one of the finest mountain hotels in Asia.

When to go to Zaborin

Winter is Niseko's headline season, with the ski areas usually open from late November or early December to early May and the deepest, lightest powder typically falling from late December to February. Christmas, New Year and Chinese New Year are the busiest and most expensive periods, so book far ahead. March offers sunnier spring skiing with fewer crowds. Summer and autumn are a quieter, greener Niseko, with hiking, rafting, cycling and golf, and autumn colour in October. Whatever the season, the private onsen baths are the constant, and with only 15 villas, early booking is essential. Plan to ski in the morning and return in the afternoon, so there is time for a long soak in your villa's onsen before the evening's Kita Kaiseki dinner.