By the Best Mountain Hotels editorial team ·
Las Chimeneas is a small, owner-run guesthouse in Mairena, a white village high in the eastern Alpujarras, on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada. Run by Emma and David, it has just three rooms and three casitas in a converted village house, hiking routes starting from the door and views south over terraced hillsides towards the Mediterranean, at a remarkably gentle price.
Las Chimeneas is a small, owner-run guesthouse in Mairena, a white village high in the eastern Alpujarras, on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada. Run by Emma and David, it has just three rooms and three casitas in a converted village house, hiking routes starting from the door and views south over terraced hillsides towards the Mediterranean, at a remarkably gentle price.
Location: Mairena, the Alpujarras
The Sierra Nevada, behind Granada in Andalucía, is the highest range in mainland Spain, rising to 3,479 metres at Mulhacén, with Europe's southernmost ski resort on its northern slopes and the white villages of the Alpujarras on its southern flanks. The Alpujarras are a region of steep valleys, terraced fields, chestnut woods and flat-roofed white villages, the last stronghold of the Moors in Spain, and their old mule paths make them one of the best walking regions in Europe.
Mairena is in the quieter eastern Alpujarras, reached from Granada or Almería, with the high Sierra Nevada rising behind it.
Rooms at Las Chimeneas
There are three rooms and three casitas, each sleeping two to four guests, in a large village house and its neighbouring buildings. Interiors are simple and full of light, with high windows, local materials and views over the terraces.
Facilities at Las Chimeneas
This is a guesthouse rather than a hotel, with bed and breakfast and a warm, personal welcome from its owners. Walking routes start right from the house, and guests can book a walking week with local transport and route maps included. There is no spa or pool; the attraction is the village, the walking and the views.
The mountain moment
The defining moment is a day on the old paths of the Alpujarras, through chestnut woods and terraced fields, with the snowy Sierra Nevada above and the Mediterranean glinting far below.
Back in the village, watch the sunset from the terrace as the swifts wheel over the rooftops.
Why Las Chimeneas is one of the best mountain hotels
Las Chimeneas earns its place for its authenticity, its walking and its value. It is a window onto a traditional mountain way of life that survives in few places in Europe.
For skiing, see Meliá Sol y Nieve and El Lodge, and for a country retreat near Granada, La Almunia del Valle.
When to go to Las Chimeneas
Spring, from March to June, brings almond blossom, wildflowers and snow on the peaks, the best season for walking. Autumn, from September to November, brings the chestnut harvest and golden light. High summer is hot for walking, and winter is quiet, with snow on the high Sierra.
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Questions, answered
- Where is Las Chimeneas?
- Las Chimeneas is in the village of Mairena, in the eastern Alpujarras on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada, reached from Granada or Almería.
- How many rooms does Las Chimeneas have?
- There are three rooms and three casitas, each sleeping two to four.
- Is Las Chimeneas good for walking?
- Yes. Walking routes start from the door, and walking weeks with routes and transport can be booked.
- Is Las Chimeneas affordable?
- Yes. Bed and breakfast starts at around €65 for a double.
- When is the best time to walk in the Alpujarras?
- March to June and September to November.
