Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda

Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge is Uganda's highest lodge, perched at around 2,000 metres on a ridge on the edge of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Built from local volcanic stone, its cottages have double-sided fireplaces and views that stretch, on clear days, across the forest to the Virunga volcanoes. It is the finest base in Uganda for tracking mountain gorillas, and one of the most atmospheric lodges in Africa.

Location: Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda

The lodge stands in the Nkuringo area of south-western Bwindi, close to the borders with Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Bwindi is one of Africa's oldest rainforests, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and home to around half of the world's mountain gorillas, with several habituated families that can be tracked from the lodge. Guests usually arrive by light aircraft to the nearby airstrip at Kisoro, or by road from Kigali in Rwanda, crossing the border. Uganda's gorilla permits are generally cheaper than Rwanda's, and the treks here are often steeper and wilder, through the dense, ancient forest that gives Bwindi its name.

Bwindi is also one of Africa's richest birding destinations, with more than 350 species, including many found only in the Albertine Rift, and the area around the lodge has beautiful walks to Lake Mutanda and through terraced farmland. In parts of the park, travellers can join a gorilla habituation experience, spending several hours with a family that is being accustomed to people, and visits to the Batwa, the forest's original inhabitants, offer an insight into their traditional way of life. Many itineraries combine Bwindi with Queen Elizabeth National Park, famous for its tree-climbing lions, or with gorilla treks across the border in Rwanda.

Cottages at Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge

There are seven cottages, five doubles and two family cottages, each built of volcanic stone, with a large sitting room, a double-sided fireplace and a bedroom with wide views over the forest. They are warm, comfortable and characterful, with local art and textiles, and the fires make the cool mountain nights wonderfully cosy.

Facilities at Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge

The main lodge, also built from volcanic stone, has a lounge with a fireplace, a dining room and a terrace looking across to the Virungas. There is a small spa, and a massage after a gorilla trek is one of the great pleasures of a stay. Meals are included, and the lodge's guides arrange gorilla treks with six habituated groups, including the Nkuringo family, as well as forest walks, community visits and birdwatching.

The lodge is the flagship of the Wild Places collection, and its staff are drawn from the surrounding communities, who benefit directly from tourism.

The mountain moment

The Clouds moment is an early morning on the terrace, as the mist lifts from Bwindi's valleys and the perfect cones of the Virunga volcanoes appear on the horizon. A few hours later, deep in the forest, you are watching a gorilla family feeding among the ferns, then climbing back to a fire, a massage and a well-earned drink.

Why Clouds is one of the best mountain hotels

Clouds earns its place for setting and atmosphere. Its altitude, views, stone cottages and fires make it the most dramatic gorilla lodge in Uganda, and Bwindi's ancient forest offers a wilder trekking experience than Rwanda. Getting there takes time, the treks can be demanding, and the weather is often cool and misty. But for adventurous travellers, it is unforgettable.

For gorillas in Rwanda, see Bisate Lodge or Singita Kwitonda Lodge.

Plan to stay at least two or three nights, as getting here takes time and the treks can be long. Hire a porter at the start of each trek, bring sturdy waterproof boots, gloves and a rain jacket, and be prepared for steep, muddy slopes: the reward, a quiet hour with a gorilla family in one of the oldest forests in Africa, is worth every step.

When to go to Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge

Gorilla trekking is possible all year. The drier months, from June to August and December to February, bring easier trails and clearer views, while March to May and September to November are wetter but quieter, with a lush forest. Book permits early for the dry seasons, and pack waterproofs, gloves and sturdy boots, as treks in Bwindi can be long and steep.

Clouds is also a wonderful place to simply be in the mountains: on days without a trek, guests can walk through the hills, visit local schools and farms, and watch the clouds rolling over the forest canopy from the terrace.

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